Luxor

Luxor or Thebes as the ancients called it, is located on the east bank of the Nile approximately 700 kms. south of Cairo. I took the overnight train from Cairo to Luxor, which was an adventure in itself.

 

The best way to escape the oppressive afternoon heat is to ride a Felucca on the cool waters of the Nile.

As the Sun disappeared behind the Valley of Kings, I smoked a Sheesha and sipped sweet black tea with the captain while his nephew pulled in the sails.

 

The next day I visited Queen Hatshepsut’s mortuary temple where Horus, the god of protection, stands guard at the entrance. Interestingly, Horus is usually represented as a Falcon because it never closes its eyes, even while looking straight into the Sun.

Party time, pharaoh style!

Luxor temple at night, the row of obelisks used to run for 3kms all the way to the Karnak temple. If you have been following my posts, you should know where the missing obelisk is.

Inside one of the great halls of the Karnak temple complex at night.

More picture here (soon).

Cairo

Cairo has an energy unlike any other city I have visited, sidewalk cafes are open until wee hours of the night and the people have an easy sense of humor about their chaotic city life.

People in Cairo prefer walking in the street, sidewalks are reserved for vendors and parking. The traffic police directs pedestrians instead of vehicles as busy intersections.

 

Unlike other cities that have stray dogs, Cairo is overrun by stray cats that the Egyptians revere as the goddess Bastet.

Its difficult to describe the scale and magnificence of the Great Pyramids at Giza, suffice to say that they are only exceeded by the persistence and deceit of the touts surrounding the site.

The fully excavated Sphinx looks a little naked without all the sand around it, walking around it at sunset was a little eerie. It even has a tail!

The wonderfully antiquated Cairo Museum overflows with Egyptian relics from the Pharaohs to more recent times. Exhibits are displayed in 19th century cabinets with typewritten notes on index cards.

Al-Azhar mosque and university is a symbol of Islamic Egypt since 970 AD. It is in the old part of town and is surrounded by narrow market alleys and other Islamic building from various eras.

It is impossible to walk in Cairo and not stumble into a Sheesha cafe, some are open 24 hours. Historically, they were exclusively male establishments but I saw women aplenty.

This was the best meal I had in Cairo, crispy pigeon stuffed with flavored rice and spices along with a cup of steaming broth. On the side, pita bread, hummus, fresh salad and pickled vegetables.

More pictures here (soon).

S • P • Q • R

I don’t whether to like Rome or dismiss it as one gigantic tourist trap. Admittedly, I didn’t spend much time scratching beyond the surface, just visiting the “must see” sites consumed most of my time. Hopefully, tossing a coin in Trevi fountain has ensured my speedy return.

The Flavian Amphitheatre (aka Coliseum) was the largest one built by the Romans to serve as a venue for immensely popular gladiator fights.

The main arena of the Coliseum, it was once temporary flooded to stage a “naval” battle.

The Pantheon in Rome has the worlds largest unsupported dome. Michelangelo supposedly designed St. Peter’s dome a little smaller to honor this ancient temple.  

 

The magnificent Baroque styled Trevi fountain marks the end of an ancient Roman aqueduct. The fountain depicts the sea-god Oceanus and Tritons taming  Hippocampi, a symbol for controlling water.

Immortalized in the film “Roman Holiday”, the famous and incredibly crowded Spanish steps with the Trinita dei Monti church in the background.

The Vatican museums house some of the worlds greatest collections acquired by the Roman Catholic Church. In the background is the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica.

The impressive facade of St. Peter’s Basilica, with statutes of the eleven apostles, John the Baptist and Christ on top.

 

Pontifical guards in their traditional uniform. Interestingly, only Swiss male citizens are accepted into service by the Vatican.

St. Peter’s square and Rome from the dome of the basilica. The 320 steps to the top are quite strenuous and claustrophobic at the end.

Above, Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum and later a Papal fortress and castle.

View of St. Peter’s Basilica and the Tiber river at dusk.

You can see more pictures here (soon).

London

 

The London marathon winds its way along the Thames and finishes in St. James Park. Runners can brag about starting in the Western hemisphere and ending in the East, crossing the Greenwich meridian.

The Tower Bridge was opened in 1884 and still raises its bascules for passing river traffic.

Nearby, the Tower of London and it’s dry moat is now a museum and historic monument. In the past, it has served as a palace, fortress and prison.

Frequented by Charles Dickens and William Shakespeare, the George Inn is the only galleried coaching inn to survive in London.

The impressive Baroque styled St. Paul’s cathedral has a dome second only to St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome.

Enjoying a pint of “Bitter” in a traditional English pub with Mr. Curmudgeon.

“Hey look kids, there’s Big Ben, and there’s Parliament”

Thames and the London eye, originally a temporary exhibit now an icon. The 30 minute ride offers nice views of London.

You can see more pictures here (soon).

I Stare at Goats

 

Crete is the largest Greek island and birthplace of one of the earliest civilization in Europe. I was lucky to visit just before the tourist season started and practically had the place to myself.

 

These huge ferries transport people, cars and cargo between Crete, mainland Greece and the other islands. At the end of my trip I took the Minoan “Festos Palace” for an overnight crossing back to the Athenian port of Piraeus.

The ancient Venetian fortress in Iraklion stands guard over the harbor. Walking and fishing along the ancient (now restored) sea-wall is a favorite local pastime.

The ruins of a Bronze Age complex called Knossos Palace lie a few kilometers south of Iraklion. The Minotaur supposedly lived in a labyrinth under the palace, although no traces of a labyrinth were ever discovered.

Orange orchards were everywhere, even growing wild!

 

The island is extremely mountainous and some slopes offer skiing in the winter. The valleys and gentler slopes are covered with olive groves and vine yards.

I rented a car (a box on wheels really) and drove around the island, visiting remote mountain-top monasteries.

Needless to say, the sea-food was spectacular. Restaurants display their catch in front and customers can choose what they want, like the half sea-bass I had for dinner.

Like my idol, I can’t stop chasing windmills. The road actually ended at a secluded nunnery just around the corner and I never made it to the windmills.

On my last day on the island, I hiked a few kilometers out on a remote ridge; from this precarious perch it was hard to distinguish between the sea and the sky.

 

On my hike back to the car I ran into a family of wild mountain goats, this one miraculous climbed out of the precipice.

Mamma goat and her kids stood their ground and I was obliged take a rather strenuous detour.

You can see more pictures here (soon).

The Acropolis

I was in Greece a few weeks ago and one of the highlights of my trip was a visit to the Acropolis located on a small hill in the center of modern day Athens. This place has hosted human settlements since the Bonze age, approximately 3500 years ago.

The north slope of the Acropolis was covered in wild flowers, the outline on the right is the Propylae or main entrance. The outline on the left is a temple called the Eretchteum, dedicated to the Greek hero Erichthonious.

The Odeon of Herodes Atticus was built by it’s namesake in the memory of his wife and has served as a venue for many modern day musicians as well.

The Theatre of Dionysus was originally built by the Greeks and subsequently renovated by the Romans.

Annoying tourists pose for pictures next to the Parthenon, a Doric style temple dedicated to the goddess Athena – protector of ancient Athens.

The south (long) and east side of the Parthenon, notice the subtle curvature of the columns.

Across the Parthenon is the famous Porch of Maidens on the back side of the Erechtheum.

At the base of the hill, near the ancient Agora (market) is the Temple of Hephaestus, the best preserved Doric temple in the world today.

 

The Chapel of St. George at the summit of the Mount Lykabettos – the highest hill in Athens.

You can see beautiful sunsets from the top of Mount Lykabettos.

At dusk the Acropolis is lit up and jumps out against the magnificent backdrop of the Aegean sea.

You can see more picture here (soon).

Beer and BMW

Munich is renowned for its beer gardens, BMW and Oktoberfest. Fortunately for me, I wasn’t in Munich during Oktoberfest. Why fortunately, you ask? Read on my gentle reader, read on.

Above, I make my way to traditional beer hall a few minutes after I arrive in Munich. This one is owned and operated by Augustiner Brau, an independent local brewery since 1328.

A few hours and two liters (or was it three?) later I stumble out of the frying pan into the fire; I have no recollection of the beer stall in the picture above. The “Helles” style beer being sold is typical of Munich, it’s a little sweeter than a traditional Pilsner.

Now, it is a truth universally acknowledged that a single man in possession of a lot of beer, must be in want of food. While I cannot claim full responsibility for this poor beast’s sorry state (above), I remember waking up with enough meat between my incisors to satisfy a family of four.

 

Upon waking from my beer induced coma, I did what all responsible adults would have done. I sternly chastised myself for the previous night’s excesses and headed to the English Gardens (above and below) for round zwei.

This time I was well prepared for the yeasty onslaught, having learned a lesson about beer consumption on an empty stomach. I purchased the bread, sausage and cheese (not is picture) from Viktualienmarkt, an open air food market.

The next day I decide to assuage my conscience by steering clear of beer halls and visiting a few landmarks instead. Above, the Hofgarten and it’s fountains with the State chancery in the background.

Once a royal palace, the Residenz (above) now exhibits collections belonging to Bavarian monarchs.

A statue of Virgin Mary adorns the plaza in front of the new town hall. In the background is the famous Glockenspiel of Munich, a clock-work that comes to life at certain times of the day.

The church on the right is Theatinerkirche St. Kajetan, which contains the tombs of Bavarian royalty. The small arched building to the left is the Feldherrnhalle, which honors the Bavarian army and later was the site of the infamous “Beer Hall Putsch”.

The world headquarters of a small car company you might have heard of, is also located in Munich. The cylindrical building in the foreground is a museum, and just left of the tall building is the factory (not in picture).

Inside the museum, a 1999 Z8 driven by Pierce Brosnan in “The World is Not Enough”. The request to upgrade my Z4 was politely turned down.

The BMW factory is reflected in the storm like structure of the BMW Welt, where customers can take delivery of their new Bimmers. Later, I went on a factory tour and a subsequent mind erasure.

   

On my last day in Munich I visited the Neue Pinakothek, which contains many notable works of art. Above, a few of my favorites, Vincent van Gogh’s Still life with Sunflowers, Plain near Auvres, View of Arles, and Nympheas by Claude Monet. Interestingly, van Gogh painted the Sunflowers to decorate the room of his friend and artist, Paul Gauguin.

Here are some more pictures (soon).

Meandering with Friends

The upper middle Rhine valley is a UNESCO world heritage site located in eastern Germany, famous for it’s unique micro-climate and many medieval castles that dot the landscape. Here are some pictures from my trip to this region.

Above, the flat river valley carved by the Rhine is flanked by steep hills on either side. The climate is ideal for growing some of the best wine grapes in the world.

Regional trains run along the river, offering a scenic alternative to high speed trains that take a more direct route. The steep banks are covered with vineyards.

Small villages are scattered along the river’s meandering course, each has a castle or two nearby.

These well preserved buildings are examples of “Fachwerk” or timber framing, an architectural style typical in the region.

Driving right next to river you can watch castles diminish in the rear view mirror as others appear over the horizon.

Castle Pfalzgrafenstein stands on a small island in the middle of the Rhine; Victor Hugo called it “a ship of stone”. Like its many adversaries it was built to collect toll from passing ships.

Modern ferries transport people and cars between the banks of the river, expertly navigating between large commercial barges.

Up on the hills the vines were not yet ready to sprout in early spring.

 

The large outcrop on the left is named after Loreley, an alluring maiden who would distract navigators by brushing her golden hair. This is also the most treacherous section of the Rhine and a convenient myth is understandably the only excuse for unlucky captains.

The castle in this and the previous picture is commonly called “Berg Katz” or Cat Castle, local folklore attributes this name to animosity with nearby “Berg Maus” or Mouse Castle.

Across the river, lush meadows are punctuated with colorful farm houses. Watching the sun set behind this landscape was a very special experience indeed.

Thank you Udo and Kati (and Nike of course) for making this trip an unforgettable experience.

City of Lights

Ah Paris! Where do I start? What can I say? It’s exactly what all the tour guides and travel brochures promise, and then some. It’s romantic, fashionable, expensive and a culinary Mecca. Cafes abound on every street corner, where Parisians enjoy their Cafe au Laits as they critique the trendy parade passing by. Here are some pictures from my time in the City of Lights.

Above, I stand in the center of France – all distances in France are measured from this point in the plaza across from the Cathedrale de Notre Dame de Paris.

Gargoyles mock the folly of our human ways from the Gothic extravagance of the Notre Dame.

To the North atop a small hill stands the Basilique of Sacre Coeur, surrounded by the bohemian residents (dead and alive) of Montmarte.

In place of the demolished prison of Bastille stands the Colonne  de Juliett, commemorating revolutionary souls. Vive la Revolution!

The North side of the Musee de Louvre as seen from inside of the aesthetically debatable glass pyramid that serves as an entrance. 

 

Inside the Louvre, the armless Venus de Milo is considered the embodiment of female grace and beauty.

Mona Lisa smiles unimpressively behind panes of hermetically sealed glass, dwarfed by frescos adorning other walls of the room.

Flanked by fountains (not in picture) a 3300 year old obelisk, from the Temple of Ramses in Thebes, serves as a marker for one end of the famous Avenue des Champs Elysees.

At the other end of the Champs Elysees, Japanese newly-weds pose beneath the Arc de Triomphe which contains the remains of an unknown solider from WWI.

Across the river, not far from the Arc de Triomphe, the Eiffel Tower glitters at night as if besieged by fireflies.

The stillness of a Parisian night is captured in reflections on the river Siene, in the distance is the Arc de Triomphe.

Elsewhere, inside the now secular Pantheon, Focault’s pendulum tirelessly demonstrates the heretical idea of a rotating Earth.

Under the Pantheon, crypts hold the remains of notable French men and women like Voltaire, Victor Hugo and Marie Curie.

In stark contrast to the well tended crypts of the Pantheon, the underground Catacombes contain the neatly stacked skeletons of millions of unknown Parisians.

A far cry from the macabre Catacombes are the manicured lawns of the Jardin du Luxembourg, which encompass the fairy-tale like Palais du Luxembourg.

  With many thanks to all the wonderful Parisians (and one ex-pat) for their generous hospitality. Laissez le bon temps rouler!

You can see more pictures here (soon).

Learning to fly

My South American adventure began almost a month and a half ago in Lima on the Pacific Ocean, so it was only fitting that it end on the Atlantic Ocean. Rio de Janeiro

 

Ipanema beach was deserted in the morning, I guess even beautiful people need to work.

Later in the afternoon, I went to the summit of Tijuca Forest National Park, approximately 520m above sea level. Watch the video to find out why I was looking down at Cucumber beach from a launch ramp for hand-gliders.

 

With both feet firmly on the ground again, I hiked up an outcrop on the cusp of Ipanema and Copacabana beach to watch the sun set. The flat-top immediately to the left of the Sun was the take off point for my maiden flight.

Another picture of the beautiful sunset on Ipanema beach, a perfect place to end my South America adventure.

Here are some more pictures (soon).